Indeed, relatively small numbers of Thai people can
claim to have visited this splendidly scenic part of their own land,
and if it is amazingly well endowed with natural beauty, its other
great asset is being one of Thailand's little-known tourist
secrets. Whilst an average of
one plane every few minutes uses Phuket's busy runway, Trang's
tranquil airport (opened in 1999) welcomes just a handful of flights
a day, with the few overseas visitors on board generously
outnumbered by Thai businessmen and local citizens. At the nearby
seaport of Kantang, the charming 19th century train station marks
the terminal of the Southwestern Thai railway, adding to the
comforting end-of-the line feeling in this lovely part of the
Kingdom, with the noise and pollution of Bangkok some 830 kilometres
and 15 hours up the track.
Given that it boasts as many lovely sights as Phuket, yet is free
of high rise beach hotels, Trang is an ideal retreat for people who
seek a holiday in a relatively undiscovered place, untrampled and
untrammelled by fellow-vacationers. Here, lazy beach lounging and
stunning sightseeing attractions can be enjoyed without the standard
recipe that tends to define and often defile tourist resorts
everywhere, and since over two thirds of the province has been
designated as national parkland, thoughtful ecological
considerations are likely to shape future development.
Pronounced Dtrang with a hard consonant, the small and cute
capital of around 65,000 folks gives its name to the province of
approximately 5,200 square kilometres, and a relatively low
population density of some 600,000 friendly inhabitants, whose motto
translates as "Helping Hands and Open Minds." As is often the case,
the origin of the name is disputed. Many attribute it to Bahasa
Malaysia word terang meaning "there is light" a
somewhat unconvincing reference to Malaysian merchant sailors
supposedly with a preference of arriving here at dawn. There are
several other theories put forward by competing pundits, but correct
or otherwise, the most fitting would seem to be the local symbol -
the sri-trang flower, whose pale violet blossoms in
season are pleasantly ubiquitous everywhere.
What to do
Trang's tourism treasures combine several chests of
jewels. The topography delineates three general regions, with
relatively flat coastal areas in the south rising through an
undulating central section, punctuated by distinctive and striking
limestone outcrops. The northern area is mostly mountainous with
rolling hills, tropical rain forests and verdant valleys. The
120-kilometre stretch of alluring coastline protects some of
Thailand's most beautiful and least visited beaches. Dozens of
tropical islands, many of them uninhabited, beckon offshore. Inland,
densely forested hillsides and protected National Parks conceal
spectacular limestone caves and rushing waterfalls. Naturalists and
nature lovers will thrill at the endlessly changing panoramas that
unfold as you explore, either by vehicle, bicycle, or on foot. The
sanctuaries on land and at sea are home to many varieties of
interesting wildlife, including a large number of bird species, land
mammals, and marine creatures, including the endangered Dugong or Sea Cow. There are excellent prospects
for trekking, mountain biking, cave explorations, nature study
tours, and rock climbing activities on land, plus diving and
canoeing opportunities along the coast, and on the islands. For
those who simply want to rest, Trang
offers the ultimate in relaxation amongst some of the most idyllic
scenery in Asia.
What to see
Around the town
A tour of Trang city centre provides a
pleasant prelude to the temptations of the province. Compact, and
compatible with pedestrian explorations, the simple street layout
has a nucleus around the central Clock Tower, and the road leading
from it up to the railway station. A hired bicycle will take you
further afield, plus strengthen leg muscles, since the terrain is
undulating in a series of "khuans" - small hills, which more than
one travel writer has remarked are somewhat reminiscent of San
Francisco. Many street names are prefixed by "khuan" and the
imposing colonial-style Governor's House sits handsomely atop one of
them, rewarding the Governor and the visitor with splendid panoramic
views. If pedalling does not appeal, the unusual (said to be the
only ones in Thailand) snub-nosed puce-coloured "tuk-tuks" will take
you anywhere in town for a modest sum.
With relatively few foreign visitors, the shops are pleasantly
uncluttered with the predictable graffiti that advertises tourism
services, and a meander amongst the many merchants selling all
manner of wares, from the mundane to the mysterious, still instills
the promise of discovery. The town has a distinct Chinese flavour,
with roots in Teochew speaking immigrants who arrived here to
successfully exploit rubber cultivation following the introduction
of the first seedlings from Malaysia in 1899. The large number of
Chinese temples attests to this influence, as do the numerous cafes,
which provide stimulation, sustenance and sociability for the
populace. Even those with no inclination for caffeine will find
fascination in these mainly Hokkien-run raan kopii,
which produce a dark, pulse-quickening brew of kafae
thoong ("bag coffee") routinely reinforced with a bottom
layer of sweetened condensed milk. This hearty beverage, much
favoured by locals, is created (usually with some ceremonial
dexterity) using a grimy-looking cloth strainer, and served in a
small glass. Many of these establishments are interesting in
themselves, often decorated with aging sepia photographs, and
characterised by senior citizens. Cool marble-topped tables
predominate, each one sporting a self-service plate of tasty local
snacks, including pa thongko (Chinese doughnuts) a
variety of dim sum, and numerous other goodies, all definitely worth
a try.
The city's colourful main markets are worth visiting, especially
in the early morning, and the two municipal parks are excellent
venues for relaxation and local people-spotting. Numerous examples
of Sino-Portuguese architecture, and a languid, laid back local
flavour enhance the overall impression that Trang is a lovely little
place to be. For the first-time traveller with an itinerary
including the national parks, the beaches and the tropical islands,
it also gives a warm feeling of anticipation that, quite correctly,
the best bits are still to come.
The short 26 kilometre journey to the port of Kantang (going by
train if you desire) brings you to Trang's historical foundations.
The original town was located here at the mouth of the Trang River
until 1915, when it was decided to move it inland to a village
called Tab-Tieng, which remains a synonym for Trang today. It was
this former location which established Trang as an important trading
post between India and China, with merchandise crossing overland to
and from Thai ports in the South China Sea, cutting out both the
long circuitous sea journey via Singapore - and the pirates which
proliferated at that time.
Wildlife Sanctuaries & National
Parks
As aforementioned, large
areas of Trang province have been designated National Parks and
these encompass inland forests, mainland beaches, and offshore
islands. The main Parks inland include Khao Pu/Khao
Ya which borders Pattalung province and covers almost 700
sq. km of forested mountain terrain, home to tumbling waterfalls,
deep caves, and abundant wildlife, including several rare birds. A
more accessible sanctuary for birds is the Khlong Lamchan
Waterfowl Preserve, 17 Km east of town, a marshy area with
many species of migratory and resident species of waterfowl. The
large inland "two roomed" lake of Thalehsap Song
Hong northwest of the town derives its name from the cliff,
which from some perspectives, appears to divide the body of water
into two separate sections. Two parks contain their own small zoos - Khao Chong Wildlife Centre, 19 kms east of town,
and Jed Yod (seven peak) Park which is off the main road, travelling north. The former has marked
walking trails, and boasts a small museum. The latter is dotted with
limestone caves. Two major marine National Parks cover a huge area
of beaches, and offshore islands. The principal park of Chao
Mai, takes in 19 km of coastal beaches and mangroves as
well as nine islands. The Koh Petra Park is centred
on Petra Island as the name suggests, and includes several others,
notably Kasingh and Lindi .
The Beaches
Among the many mainland beaches are Pakmeng, Changlang Beach
(location of the Amari Trang Resort) Had Yao, Yongling Beach, Haad
San, and Chaomai Beach. These superb combinations of sea and sand,
like the islands, all have their own separate appeal and local
character, and each one is worth a visit.
The Islands
Hedonists and aspiring castaways could spend months of exquisite
explorations amongst the four dozen or so jewels here, some
uninhabited, some with simple accommodation, each one different,
each one endowed with mind-stunning scenery, and as yet all
relatively pristine. Some are served by regular ferry services such
as those mentioned below, others are splendidly isolated, and
accessible only by renting a boat from local fishermen.
Partly due to its widely publicised "Largest Underwater Wedding
Ceremony" which earns it an entry in the Guinness Book of Records, Koh Kradan is now one of the best known islands,
with floury pure white sand beaches, sparklingly clear waters, and a
lush forested interior. Trang is a prime destination for diving, and
the innovative 'weddings underwater' first launched in 1997,
is now an annual Valentine's Day event which attracts more people
every year, who sign marine marital commitments in Scuba gear at a
depth of 12 metres. All prospective newly-weds holding an
international divers license may participate - details can be had
from TAT or Thai Airways, who enthusiastically sponsor this event.
Schools of dolphins are often seen around Koh Kradan, and the area
is host to many different species of plant, marine and bird
life.
One of the most unforgettable sights amongst the islands is the
'beach at the end of the cave ' located on Koh Muk.
This spectacular result of wind and water erosion is
accessible only at low tide, when small boats (or brave swimmers)
can enter the concealed and dark tunnel from the open sea for a
80-metre journey under the rock face. This opens out into a
veritable wonderland - an intense emerald green lagoon fringed by
pure white sand, and framed against the sky by tall limestone
cliffs. Such a magical place is best appreciated by arranging a
private tour with no time limits imposed. If you can, (according to
tides) choose early morning or at dusk, when you can enjoy the
experience with nobody else around. Nature lovers and ornithologists
will enjoy visiting Koh Libong, Trang's largest
island, which is home to a large variety of migratory and resident
birds, and a protected area for the Dugong, although sightings of
this shy creature are rare. The large lovable mammal relies on
seagrass beds as its only source of food, and prior to education and
conservation efforts, it was hunted relentlessly, the tusk being
prized as a protective amulet, and the eye secretions ('tears')
considered a love potion. Koh Sukon (also known as
Koh Moo) and Koh Ngai (also known as Koh Hai) are less visited
islands, and offer lovely beaches lapped by clear water, ideal for
swimming or snorkelling.
Caves and Waterfalls
The limestone rocks and generous monsoon
rainfall make Trang a veritable paradise for these natural wonders.
Some of the caves have been made accessible for visitors with
ladders and lighting, but many others remain relatively unknown,
unexplored, and a challenge for professional speleologists. For
ordinary visitors, an organised tour with a qualified guide is the
best way to experience the caves, (known as Tham in
Thai.)
Amongst the scores of others, some of the best known are Tham Kao Pina and Tham Phra Phut,
with their revered Buddha images; Tham Tra (seal
cave) with mysterious unexplained seals carved into the walls; Tham Lae, accessible through a small opening by
boat, and leading into huge chambers of stalactites and stalagmites,
and Tham Khao Chang Hai, with its cavernous
chambers. The most impressive is Tham Lod, which is
accessed by small canoe through a tiny head-lowering entrance, and
followed by a long (10 minutes approx.) paddle in total darkness,
until you emerge into a spectacular lagoon lined by mangroves,
tumbling streams, and enclosed by majestic limestone walls. Like the
caves, Trang's waterfalls are most easily visited
by booking an organised tour, and in the same fashion, offer an
almost endless variety of forms, shapes, and dramatic effect,
particularly during the rainy season, roughly from June to October.
Just some of the locations well worth including on your itinerary
are the Chao Pra falls with their multiple levels
divided by lovely pools, Sai Rung (Rainbow) falls
whose cascading spray transforms the slanting sunlight into bright
primary colours, Prai Sawan with its rocky cascade
terminating in a lovely natural swimming pool at its base, and the
spectacular Ton Tae, which casts its waters
crashing downwards from a height of 300 metres. Less visited, but no
less lovely are the Roi Chan Pan Wang falls
(translating as 'one hundred levels-one thousand palaces') with
their multiple cascades and rocky pools set in a delightfully
tree-shaded area.
Entertainment & Shopping
Rather refreshingly, there is little in the
way of 'international' entertainment outside the hotels, and what
there is tends to centre around pubs and karaoke bars which offer
friendly venues for visitors. Attending a bloodless local bullfight,
far removed from the bloody Spanish variety and usually held once a
month, offers a glimpse of Trang citizens at play. The eager
spectators, enlivened by placing their bets, usually provide more
excitement than the placid beasts, who tend to lock horns and stay
that way for unacceptably long periods. Worth watching out for are
local presentations of typical southern Thai entertainment such as
the graceful Manora or Nora dance
performances, Nang Thalung (shadow puppet play) and Likae Pa (song and dance drama)
The abundance of bai toey (pandanus leaves)
makes Trang an excellent source of items woven from this durable
plant, particularly mats, which make useful items in any household,
large or small. The province is also well known for cotton weaving,
and there are some lovely patterns available which are unique to
this part of Thailand. Other locally made products include
woodcarvings, basketry, rubberwood toys, and attractive woven
clothes.
Events
Local festivals include the famous Chinese Vegetarian Festival normally held in
October every year on a full-moon night. This provides colourful
processions, celebrations and remarkable physical feats of endurance
by ascetics, including body piercing, and self-flagellation. The August Cake Festival reflects Trang's
reputation for making delicious cakes. The tasty confections come in
a variety of flavours - including coffee, orange, pandanus, banana,
and taro, or in delicious 'deluxe' three-flavored combinations. The
Trang Roast Pork Festival is held every September,
and features crispy roast pork made with a special recipe, which
includes a marinade of aromatic herbs. The Ta Phao Shell
Festival is aimed at promoting the conservation of nature,
and is held at Pak Meng Beach every November. Other annual events
include the Trang Products Fair in
April, which combines culture, traditions, and local products with
various colourful contests, and pageants. Another major celebration
takes place on H.M. the King's Birthday with the Red Cross
Fair , held during 5-15 December every year, providing good
entertainment, shows, and excellent shopping opportunities.
Conclusion
Whether you are a tentative first-timer, or
an old hand with a long term affection for the Land of Smiles
through repeated visits, Trang province is a most desirable holiday
destination. Prosperous in its own right through rubber and
commerce, it is not dependent on tourism, nor is it racing to
promote it. Large areas of protected National Parks will limit
expansion, and protect the natural tourism assets. At this time, it
remains relatively little known, little visited and largely
unspoiled.
The 'best' time to visit is outside the monsoon, roughly between
November and April, but the rainy season tends to consist of long
periods of sunshine, with short sharp downpours that do little to
detract from the overall enjoyment. Hotel rates and services are
generally cheaper at this time of year, which is an added incentive.
Many visitors are content to enjoy the wide selection of beaches, or
the seclusion of the islands. Others delight in exploring the
interior, and for the more adventurous, a hire car is an ideal way
to appreciate the plethora of lovely landscapes. The most desirable
way is to combine the two, and treat yourself to a mixture of
stimulating sightseeing and total relaxation.
The Amari Trang Beach Resort & Spa, the
province's first international class hotel, provides uncompromising
excellence in comfort, food, and facilities. It will also devote
itself to assisting interested guests in the discovery of the
province, with professional advice and facilities for sightseeing,
special interest tours, and sporting activities.
For visitors who also wish to enjoy the attractions of a more
developed resort, it is worth remembering that Phuket is a short 30
minute flight away, and a two centre Trang/Phuket holiday combining
the Amari Coral beach Hotel on Patong, is an attractive option.
Southern Thailand is quite different to other areas of the
country - in customs, food, language, traditions, and culture. The
one thing it has in common is the natural friendliness and welcome
that is so willingly extended to foreigners.
As somebody once said:
"If natural hospitality could be measured by music, Thailand
would play the sweetest symphonies of
all"
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