Furthermore, the community was already prosperous through
rubber and tin mining, and tourism seemed far from anybody's
thoughts. With a handful of hotels, very little
infrastructure, and sporadic flights from Bangkok carrying
local businessmen, it seemed to everybody very unlikely that
this far-flung place would ever make it into the brochures.
How wrong they were.
On ancient charts, Phuket is referred to as Jang Si Lang,
appearing on later maps, not too appealingly perhaps, as Junk
Ceylon . Some maintain the current name derives from the Malay
word 'Bukit' meaning hill, which seems the most likely,
particularly since the transliteration from Thai was spelled
Bhuket for many years. Others say it has origins in the Tamil
word, 'Manikram' or Crystal Mountain, although any phonetical
association here is unclear. Until it became recognised
internationally, Phuket (correctly pronounced Poo-Ged) was
mistakenly and mischievously included on the lists of the
world's "naughtiest-sounding" destinations.
Located just under 900 kilometres Southwest of Bangkok, it
is similar in area to Singapore, measuring 54 kilometers north
to south, and 21 kilometers east to west at its most distant
points. About 70 percent of the land area is mountainous, with
the highest elevation at 529 meters. The terrain is richly
varied, with rocky headlands, numerous beaches of differing
sizes and character, limestone cliffs, jungle-clad hills,
small estuaries, lagoons, and tropical vegetation of all
kinds. It is surrounded by over thirty smaller islands of
similar topography, many of them prime tourist attractions in
their own right. The permanent population is estimated at
roughly a quarter of a million, and Phuket is the only island
in Thailand to have full provincial status. The Sarasin Bridge
connecting it to the mainland was constructed in the
mid-1970's, and a second one parallel to it, the 660-metre
Thao Thep Krasatri Bridge, opened more recently. Phuket
airport saw its first aircraft land in 1976.
Unlike tucked-away Samui off the opposing Southeast coast
of Thailand, Phuket's strategic position as a trading post on
coastal sea routes gives it a recorded history going back a
millennium or more. This has nurtured an interesting blend of
cultures and influences, including Burmese, Malay, Chinese,
Indian, Portuguese and Dutch, mixed with the indigenous 'Chao
Ley' or sea gypsies, dark-skinned peoples thought to have
originated in India's Nicobar Islands. Although predominantly
Buddhist, Muslims make up more than one third of the
population. As a result, Phuket is a pleasantly strange mix of
ancestry and ambience, a kaleidoscope of stunning tropical
seascapes and forested hills, and a fascinating combination of
tin mining, rubber, and tourism.
One event in its history might have dramatically changed
the island's future. In the late 1700's the British seriously
considered establishing Phuket as a strategic base for their
imperialistic presence in the Far East. As it happened, they
finally opted for the island of Penang further south, a
decision they doubtless regretted when large deposits of tin
were discovered on Phuket, an asset which led to a huge
presence of immigrant Chinese. These industrious people
dominated the tin industry, and their subsequent generations
still form much of the island's population today.
If Phuket's history provides
the traveller with a rich choice of pleasurable discoveries in
edifices and customs, its size and varying altitudes endows it
with a variety of meteorological variations. Weather
conditions can thus change unexpectedly, often refreshingly,
as you travel from one part of the island to another,
particularly during the monsoon. Nearly a third of the flora
consists of rubber plantations, which were first introduced in
1903, but the remainder of the vegetation is richly varied,
and home to interesting wildlife, which in the past included
tigers, rhino and wild elephants; reported by travellers as
little as a century ago.
Tourism awareness remained at almost zero until the mid
1980's when the combined presence of the newly opened Amari
Coral Beach Resort and Club Med gave Phuket sudden and
significant international exposure. Delighted holidaymakers
from Japan, Australia and Europe spread the word, and the
emerging regional "Tiger" economies saw newly-affluent Asians
begin to experience Phuket's delights. The so-called 'rainy
season' from May to October proved to be no obstacle to
enjoyment, and by 1987 - "Visit Thailand Year" Phuket was on
everybody's lips. More top class hotels followed, and the
airport was expanded to take wide-bodied jets. Direct
scheduled and chartered flights began to arrive from
Australia, Hong Kong, Japan, and Europe, and tourism soon
became the main source of income, eclipsing the coconuts,
cashews, pineapples, fishing, prawn farming and pearl
cultivation which had been the island's economical mainstays
in the past. Most land-based tin mines have closed down due to
the fall in global prices. Marine mining still continues on a
small scale.
If Phuket is many people's dream of paradise, increasing
numbers of foreigners are turning dreams into reality by
settling here permanently, either for business or retirement,
and enjoying the unbeatable blend of exotic tropical
ingredients, excellent infrastructure, good educational
facilities, and the reasonable cost of living. Phuket indeed,
has always enjoyed high standards; by 1910, it already had
paved roads and motorcars, long before other provinces in the
Kingdom.
What to Do
Noted in a magazine:
"With its size, diversity, natural beauty, exceptional
beaches, climate, history, sightseeing, accommodation choices,
sports, flora and fauna, Thailand's Phuket is probably the
best and finest tropical holiday island in the world, catering
magnificently for all ages, nationalities and tastes"
So waxed one enthusiastic travel writer, and even if he was
somewhat biased, the accolade is not far from the truth.
Compared with most other island destinations, Phuket wins
hands down, a fact reflected in the ever-growing number of
visitors, and an average of ten flights an hour using the busy
airport, the majority of passengers coming to savour the rich
bounty of leisure activities on offer.
If the temptation is to do nothing but laze, it is one that
deserves some resistance. At the very least, a sightseeing
tour to see some of the island's varied attractions is
desirable, as is a half day walking around the main town with
its curiously Chinese-Mediterranean ambience, which mixes
modern convenience stores with ageing mansions, traditional
shops, and old European-style buildings.
Nothing, however, beats the liberated pleasure of renting a
vehicle for a few days, and equipped with swimwear and sun
oil, setting out to revel in the spectacular beaches, the
rugged coastlines, and the lush island interior. For the more
adventurous, it's a pleasant 90 km drive from Phuket to Phang
Nga with its fascinating marine rock formations, and location
of "James Bond Island" from the film Man with the Golden Gun.
If time permits, a further 86 km brings you to the stunningly
beautiful coastline of Krabi.
The plethora of islands surrounding Phuket - from the well
known such as Phi Phi to other often deserted jewels - allow
endless opportunities for playing Robinson Crusoe in
paradisiacal surroundings. For active folks, almost every land
and water-based sport is well catered for.
Looking at the map, Phuket vaguely resembles a stretched
triangle, with an irregular indented coastline as if nibbled
by fish of different sizes, the deepest bite on the West Coast
representing Patong Bay. The airport runs along the base of
the thumb-shaped northern tip where the Sarasin Bridge
connects to the mainland.
The West Coast is blessed with over a dozen world-class
beaches, whilst the less attractive East Coast is home to
prawn farms, fishing ports and the location of Phuket town.
Travelling clockwise from the town past Cape Panwa, the site
of an old Sino-Portuguese mansion, and Chalong Bay with its
boat piers and seafood restaurants, you reach the
long-established beach resort of Rawai with its adjoining Sea
Gypsy village.
As you turn northwards from Promthep, the southern tip, the
magical series of superb beaches begins, starting with
tranquil Nai Harn, venue for the annual King's Cup Regatta,
followed by Kata Noi, Kata, and Karon beaches which lead to
the island's most famous and most developed resort of Patong.
North of Patong, come the tranquil beaches of Kamala, Laem
Sing, and Surin, leading up to the developed Bang Tao Laguna
complex, formerly a tin mine. Quieter, more secluded beaches
follow, small Nai Ton, then the long graceful sweep of Nai
Yang where sea turtles lay their eggs, from November to
February. Finally, the longest of Phuket's beaches, Mai Khao
completes the series of seaside jewels with over 9 kilometres
of white sand. During the rainy season from May to October,
some of these beaches experience strong currents and
undertows. Bathers should always respect the "no swimming" red
warning flags, and avoid bathing on deserted beaches during
this period of the year.
On Land
At one point on the drive between the
airport and Phuket town, the Heroine's Monument dominates the
road. The two female figures, swords drawn, commemorate the
successful defence of the island in 1785 against the invading
Burmese led by these two brave ladies, Chan and Mook.
Phuket town can be enjoyed comfortably on foot, and one
pleasant spot to begin your meandering (early morning is best)
is Khao Rang, the hill above the town, which affords excellent
panoramic views, plus gives a good idea of the general layout
before you descend to explore. Interesting sights in the town
itself include the 200 year old Taoist temple of Put Jaw, and
the adjoining Jui Tui Temple dedicated to a vegetarian god,
and centre of many festivities during Phuket's famous
Vegetarian Festival (see below). Also worth visiting is
the shrine of Sanjao Sam San, devoted to the safety to boats
and all those at sea. Many of the town's old colonial style
buildings are absorbing, as is the Phuket Provincial Court,
and Government House, the latter doubling as the French
Embassy in Phnom Penh in the film The Killing Fields.
Nature lovers should not miss out on a visit to the 22
square kilometers of virgin forest that make up the Khao Phra
Taeo Wildlife Park, a spectacularly verdant home to many rare
plants, birds and animals and declared a wildlife sanctuary in
1969. There is a small waterfall at the park headquarters and
marked trails assist trekkers discover the jungle magic.
Mangrove swamps are one interesting aspect of Sirinat National
Park located at Phuket's northern tip, covering 90 square
kilometres, and rich in flora and fauna. Sapan Hin is an area
of parkland and sporting facilities sporting a monument to
Captain Edward Thomas Miles, who brought the first tin dredger
to Phuket in 1909. Thalang National Museum contains
interesting artefacts and exhibits from Phuket's history,
worth visiting to glimpse the island's past. Wat Chalong,
dedicated to two revered monks, is the largest and perhaps
arguably the most photogenic of the island's temples. Wat Phra
Nang Sang is the island's oldest temple dating back over 200
years, and contains a number of interesting relics, statues
and murals, including Thailand's longest Lai Tong an
accordion-like religious manuscript. Wat Pra Tong encloses a
curious half buried statue of Buddha made of gold, but still
encased in the plaster used to conceal it from the invading
Burmese. Phuket Sea Shell Museum near Rawai beach houses a
huge and fascinating display of over 2000 species, including
many rarities, and is reputedly one of the world's best
collections. The Thai Village and Orchid Farm has dozens of
rare orchid species and puts on two cultural shows a day.
Phuket Zoo is home to over 3000 animals from all over the
world, including 600 species of birds. The exhibits include an
aquarium and a 'nocturnal house' the latter devoted to
insects, beasties and other creatures that may bump into you
in the night. Phuket Butterfly Garden & Aquarium boasts a
wide range of magnificent butterflies, interesting insects,
and fascinating aquatic life. The Marine Biological Research
Centre located at Cape Panwa rewards visitors with a memorable
close up of more than a hundred sea creatures. The Pearl Farm
on Naga Island opposite
Phuket town offers an opportunity to
learn the methods of culturing these lovely treasures.
For sports enthusiasts, Phuket offers a huge choice of
activities, including 4 top-class golf courses one of which,
the championship Blue Canyon Country Club, was the venue for
the Johnnie Walker Classic Tournament, in 1994 and 1998.
Amongst the long list of sports, there is Rock-Climbing,
Elephant Trekking, Mountain Biking, Go-Cart Racing, Mini Golf,
Horse Riding, Shooting, Paintball, Bowling, Thai Boxing, and
Bungy Jumping, to mention a few.
At Sea20 kilometres south east of Phuket, Phi Phi Islands
are the most visited and most famous, no less so than after
the filming of The Beach on Phi Phi Ley, the smaller island of
the two, starring Leonardo Di Caprio. The scenery is literally
spectacular, and this is forseeably the most popular of all
the full day excursions. Renting your own boat is a desirable
option if you want to explore beyond the set tour itineraries,
and beat the crowds. This option also allows you to visit many
of the smaller and idyllic islands offshore, and a friendly
boatman who knows the best spots and the hidden beaches can
make for a truly memorable experience.
For divers, many islands offer prime sites, such as Dok
Mai, Racha, and Shark Point. The preferred choice however is
the remote but renowned Similans, a chain of 8 islands 90
kilometres NW of Phuket, which according to those in the know,
has some of the best dives in the world. Deep Sea Fishing can
be arranged privately or jointly with fully equipped boats in
pursuit of tuna, marlin, shark, sailfish and other big ones.
Yacht Charters can be arranged by the day, or for longer, with
or without crew.
Entertainment
Patong Beach is the undisputed nucleus
of the island's entertainment, with a bewildering choice of
clubs bars restaurants and trysts from the sophisticated to
the sensational. The Simon Transvestite Cabaret rarely fails
to impress with its excellent all male but exquisitely
feminine productions, and at Kamala beach, the huge and
extravagant Phuket Fantasea theme park blends high technology
and special effects with stunning cultural presentations
featuring hundreds of talented performers and scores of
trained animals.
Events
Phuket boasts an extensive calendar of
festivals and special events, including the Chao Ley Boat
Floating Festival held during the middle of the sixth and
eleventh lunar months at the Chao Ley (Sea Gypsy) villages in
Phuket. Amongst festivities, music and dance, small boats
containing dolls, and strands of hair are released on to the
water to bring good fortune, and to ward off malevolence. The
newly introduced Phuket Fireworks Festival scheduled for July,
at Sapanhin Cape near Phuket town promises 4000 bursting
beauties in the night sky, and may well become an annual
event. Phuket's increasingly well-known and interestingly
bizarre Vegetarian Festival is held from the 1st to the 9th
day of the waxing moon of the 9th Chinese calendar month,
which falls around September-October. Originating in 1825 in
rites to ward off the plague, hundreds of white-robed
participants, eschew meat, and take part in trance-like
processions, apparently insensitive to the pain of
self-inflicted body-piercings, flagellation, fire-walking and
other physical trials. To add to the drama and atmosphere,
enthusiastic spectators throw exploding firecrackers at their
feet as they walk, and the effect can be quite surreal. Patong
Carnival at the beginning of November promises a bonanza of
the best Thailand can offer in good natured and noisy
entertainment. This includes folk bands, jazz bands, famous
local singers, fashion shows, sports competitions, beauty
pageants, handicrafts, artists, painters, and almost
everything else that is either fun, entertaining, colourful,
or just wonderfully eccentric. Also at the beginning of
November, the Phuket International Seafood Festival celebrates
the rich bounty of the surrounding sea with a variety of
festivities, and the participation of hotels, restaurants, and
tourism related sectors. The Laguna Phuket Triathlon takes
place in November at Bang Tao Beach, comprising a 1800-metre
swim, a 55-kilometre bike race, and a 12-kilometre run. First
organised to celebrate His Majesty's 60th birthday, the Phuket
King's Cup Regatta is held on December 5. It is the largest of
its kind in Asia, and open to several different classes of
yacht.
Conclusion
It is hard to think of anywhere in the
world that matches Phuket's alluring mixture of attractions;
its superb and varied choice of beaches, its lush jungle
interiors, its huge range of sports and leisure activities,
and its bonus of surrounding idyllic smaller islands. When you
blend this with the wonderful things that Thailand is so
justifiably famous for its food, hospitality, culture,
traditions, festivals and history, other destinations tend to
pale by comparison.
A combination of a few days shopping and sightseeing in
Bangkok followed by a stay in Phuket offers the ultimate in
pleasure and relaxation. However, with direct flights linking
the island with other Thai resorts such as Pattaya and Samui,
plus connections to many Asian cities, all kinds of delightful
holiday combinations with Phuket become easy, flexible and
fascinating.
The monsoon season from May to October sees plenty of
showers, spectacular thunderstorms, and occasional periods of
prolonged rain. This is offset by the many things to do on
cloudy days, which in any case often bring relief to
sunbathers feeling the effects of the strong rays. Another big
advantage is reflected in the substantially lower hotel prices
during this period - often less than half of the traditional
high season prices.
Patong Beach offers the best selection of activities,
sports, shopping, and entertainment, therefore is the busiest
and most developed. The Amari Coral Beach Resort is located on
a secluded headland at the south end of Patong Beach. For
those seeking peace and quiet combined with the convenience of
a lively resort on their doorstep, this delightful hotel is
the perfect choice for a memorable holiday on one of the most
beautiful islands in the world. |
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