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If Bangkok is to Thailand as London is to England, then Chiang Mai is to Northern
Thailand as Edinburgh is to Scotland. Indeed, it is almost similar in size and population
to the Scottish capital, and with a past equally as turbulent, and customs as distinctively
different, a week here might not be long enough for the serious traveller.
Without delving into linguistics or history, it is interesting to know that the
Thai word for twelve is Sib-song. A thousand is Pan and a million is Lan. A paddy
field translates as Na, and by joining these words, we form two names that are fundamental
to understanding Northern Thai history, ie. Sib-Song Pan-Na and Lan-Na. Respectively,
they mean twelve thousand, and one million rice fields. For those who have thrilled
to the irreproducible iridescent green of ripening paddy, this is a wonderful image
to consider before we even start.
Much like Australia or America, modern-day Thailand is composed mainly of migrant
races. Various ethnic peoples of the Mon-Khmer group, such as the Lawa tribe, which
is still in evidence today, originally inhabited Northern Thailand. The majority
of today's northern "Thais" are in fact are descended from "Tai" or "Dai" immigrants,
mainly from Northern Burma, China and Laos, who displaced the indigenous races,
and over centuries were eventually, and very often painfully, united.
Evidence of this clearly exists in archaeological and linguistic studies, but nothing
is more compelling than a visit to Sib Song Panna (Xishuangbanna) in China's Yunnan
province. This might be called China's Mini-Thailand, for it is indeed more Thai
than Chinese, with the Buddhist "Dai" people in the majority, said to number over
800,000. They celebrate distinctly Thai customs, and worship in Thai-style temples.
Familiar sights such as saffron-robbed monks are also common, and although it is
clear that there are Tai origins elsewhere in Asia, many older Thai people look
on Sib Song Panna as their ancestral home.
The fruits of these various migrations led to a unification of races, and the formation
of the Lan-Na Kingdom (mostly written now as Lanna). According
to historians, King Mengrai, the first fully documented Lanna ruler, founded Chiang
Mai ("new town") on Thursday, 12th April 1296 - nearly 500 years before Bangkok
rose from the muddy banks of the Chao Phya River. Chiang Mai not only became the
capital and cultural centre of the Lanna Kingdom; it established itself as the centre
of Buddhism in northern Thailand. At the height of its influence, Lanna extended
far into Burma and Laos, and in Thailand, southwards as far as the town of Khampaeng
Phet, near Sukhothai. The rich and often violent history that followed sets this
region quite apart from the rest of the country in terms of atmosphere and feeling.
Except for regional invasions of territory, influences from the outside world were
minimal, and over centuries, Chiang Mai was almost unknown to the west, mostly because
of its mountainous inaccessibility.
A few intrepids braved the journey, and survived the malaria. A curious consequence
of this was the individual interpretation of the city's spelling and pronunciation.
Over the centuries, Chiang Mai acquired over a hundred different names ranging from
'Jangoma', 'Tsieengh Maeij', to 'Zangnomang'. The adventurous Englishman Ralph Fitch
who came here in 1587, called it 'Jahomey' and his impressions read as: "A very
fair and great town with fair houses of stone, well peopled, and the streets are
very large".
The Burmese occupied Chiang Mai from the mid 16th to the mid 18th century, their
eventual expulsion achieved by military assistance from the King of Siam, when Lanna
princes agreed to relinquish some of their tenacious independence. The Siamese government
finally integrated the Lanna states in 1904, and Chiang Mai became an official province
of Siam in 1933, The country was renamed Thailand in 1939. (This decision was reversed
some years later, then reinstated)
The centuries-old isolation which did so much to nurture and preserve Lanna's unique
culture is best illustrated by the fact that until the railway line was completed
in the late 1920's, Chiang Mai was only accessible by river transport and elephant
back, the perilous journey from Bangkok taking over a month. (It now takes 55 minutes
by plane) Any form of navigable roads came much later. The first motor vehicle to
be driven all the way from Bangkok on the rutted network of tracks arrived in Chiang
Mai in 1932. More significantly, the last stretch of fully paved road into the city
was not completed until 1972, three years after man landed on the moon.
Today, just thirty years later, Chiang Mai is the economic, cultural and communications
centre of Northern Thailand. The forested mountainous province to which it gives
its name boasts excellent infrastructure, good roads and efficient communications.
It is home to a number of different peoples, each with their own culture and language,
which gives it a fascinating indigenous cultural identity. It is this intriguing
diversity, mixed with the spectacular scenery and myriad attractions which makes
it one of Asia's most appealing tourist destinations, and not a place for an overnight
stop. Unlike Thailand's other two main historical cities, Sukhothai and Ayuthya,
whose ancient sites are mainly outside the town, Chiang Mai clasps its history close
to its bosom. Centuries-old chedis and temples rub shoulders with modern convenience
stores and car showrooms, right in the heart of the city. Chiang Mai is unique.
Perhaps that is why Joe Cummings, author of the famous "Lonely Planet" guidebooks
to Thailand, chooses to live and work here.
Located in the Mae Ping River Basin, 710 kilometres from Bangkok, and 305 metres
above sea level, the original city layout still exists as a neat square surrounded
by a moat, and vestiges of the fortified wall. Four main gates offer principal access
to the old town, which is criss-crossed by main roads, and veined by charming narrow
lanes with traditional teakwood houses and lovely everyday images of Northern Thailand,
all begging to be admired. There are more than 30 temples in this area, some venerable
sites dating back to the founding of the city in 1296.
This part of Chiang Mai can be explored on foot or bicycle (early morning is recommended)
but it essential to have a good walking map. Nancy Chandler's edition, which shows
many little workshops, tiny restaurants, and all kinds interesting tucked away places,
is considered the best. Largely due to an absence of any public transport system
(Tuk-Tuks and red collective taxis are the only way to get around) coupled with
increasing vehicle ownership, Chiang Mai is facing growing traffic-related problems.
If you are exploring on your own it is important that you know where to look, rather
than investigate corners of the city in anticipation of making a discovery.
Radiating out from the old town, ring routes and good road systems allow easy access
to the other parts of the city, and the beauty of the beckoning province. There
are scores of reputable travel agencies offering a wide range of organised tours,
from half-day trips to week-long adventures. Many visitors take advantage of the
attractive rates for car hire, particularly if arranged on a weekly or longer-term
rental when if you shop around, costs can drop below US$20 a day (for a Suzuki Caribean)
- including mileage and insurance. Some independent driver-guides advertise their
services for as little as 100 baht (approx US$2.50) an hour (excluding gasoline)
with a pledge not to take you to commission-based shops. This opens up possibilities
for endless enjoyment exploring Chiang Mai province, and even further afield to
Chang Rai, the Mekhong River, and the "Golden Triangle"
What to Do
Chiang Mai and the surrounding province offer a plethora of pleasures and pursuits
catering for almost every taste. Even those with no interest in times past will
be struck by the allure of ancient temples, built centuries ago by dedicated architects
and craftsmen with no modern tools, only a natural sense of perfect proportion and
aesthetic beauty. History buffs will revel in ancient relics and priceless exhibits
in museums and private collections. Shoppers will discover absolute delights in
what is one of the largest collections of cottage industries in the world - quite
apart from all the other bargains on offer in markets and city shops. Sports fans
will find everything from go-karts and golfing to ice hockey and hot air ballooning.
Nature lovers will love the variety of flora and fauna, trekkers the fascination
of hill tribes, mountain bikers will thrill to the countryside, gourmets can learn
the secrets of Thai cuisine, holistic types will find dozens of alternative therapies,
and would-be Buddhist meditators all the Dhamma instruction they need. Whether you
take an organised tour, or explore by yourself, or a mixture of both, Chiang Mai,
to allow us an appropriate clich?, has something for everyone. This web site can
only highlight just a few of the possibilities.
Walking or Bicycling Within the City Walls
A convenient starting point is at Tha Phae Gate on the east flank
of the moat, closest to the Ping River. The margins on both sides of the gate contain
a host of tourism-friendly outlets, including restaurants, bakeries, pubs, entertainment
places, vehicle hire (including bicycles) and the small market of Sompet. Tha Phae
is also a focal point for performances and processions during major Thai festivals.
Close to the centre of the old city, Wat Chedi Luang is a recently
renovated but impressive old temple dating back to 1441, which reputedly once held
Bangkok's Emerald Buddha. It also houses the Lak Muang or city pillar. Inside the
northern wall of the city, at Chang Phuak Gate close to the Thai Airways office
is the oldest temple of Wat Chiang Man, which dates back to 1296,
and was apparently where King Mengrai lived during the city's construction. It houses
two small but precious Buddha images, the smallest "Crystal Buddha" just 10 cm high.
Wat Pra Singh, close to the west Suan Dork Gate
, is probably the most photographed temple, and dates to 1345. In addition to the
main structures, its spacious sunlit grounds house an elegantly carved library,
and a chapel containing a Buddha image thought to be 1500 years old, with origins
in Sri Lanka.
Outside the Walls & City Environs
More ancient temples await serenely in all corners of the town. Some of the best
known include Wat Suan Dork (built in 1383) with its whitewashed
stupas, and the pleasantly tree-shaded seven spired Wat Jet Yod
(1455) close to the Amari Rincome Hotel. Wat U-Mong, whose original
foundations date to 1296, lies in a delightfully forested setting on the fringe
of town, and its cool calm atmosphere makes for a lovely afternoon's outing. Buddhist
talks in English are often conducted here on Sundays, and there is also a small
open air zoo. In the same area of town, Wat Ram Poeng is a well-known
and long established centre for Buddhist meditation, and the highly regarded courses
for foreigners are often fully subscribed.
The many artifacts at the recently renovated National Museum, close
to the Amari Rincome Hotel, give insights into Chiang Mai's compelling history whilst
the Chiang Mai University Museum of Art always has interesting
exhibits. The excellent Hilltribe Museum is a must-see for anybody
fascinated by Thailand's ethnic groups, and provides comprehensive information as
well as lifelike and colourful renditions of their dress and everyday activities.
Chiang Mai's multitude of local markets can provide hours of fascination
as well as potential bargains. The biggest, best known and beautiful market is
Warorot close tothe Ping River. The surrounding area also offers some
colourful shopping opportunities. Because most visitors are on a short stay, very
few experience the pleasure of exploring the Mae Ping River , which
flows through the city. Starting out early with a hired bicycle along the winding
riverside roads and tracks introduces you to a delightfully peaceful world of small
villages where rural life goes on much as before, despite the proximity of the city.
A stop for some noodles or a cold drink will usually bring an audience of smiling
faces, and possibly some new friends. The organised boat excursions offer an interesting
but obviously much less intimate perspective of the river.
Further out of town, and topping the list of most sightseeing options is the scenic
16 kilometre switchback ride up to the holy temple of Doi Suthep,
where from an altitude of 1,000 metres, the views are stunning on a clear day. The
revered temple dates back to 1383, and is reached by a long flight of some 300 steps,
or an optional cable car when it is in service. Like most prime sightseeing attractions,
it is much better to visit here in the early morning when the atmosphere is wonderfully
other-worldly, and most fellow tourists are still in bed. You can easily spend several
hours up here, and warm clothes are recommended, particularly between November-February.
On Fridays, weekends and official holidays, an optional extension from Doi Suthep
is a visit to the summer residence of the Thai Royal Family at Phuping Palace
when the superb grounds are open to the public. On the way down from Doi Suthep,
visitors can call in at Chiang Mai Zoo, (said to be the largest of its kind in SE
Asia) which has an extensive collection of 6,000 animals, plus two waterfalls, and
twisting roads offering nice views of the city. A vehicle is needed to navigate
the wide area covered. Close to the zoo is the Chiang Mai Arboretum
with a shady collection of many different tree species, and further down towards
town, the main gate to the well tended grounds of Chiang Mai University
, which also houses a small lake and useful collection of small shops, banks, and
a post office.
There are a number of picturesque areas within an hour's drive from the city centre.
Travelling north brings you to Mae Rim then westwards to the
Mae Sa Valley, where you can stop at fascinating roadside orchid and
butterfly farms, snake farms, and elephant camps. A "must stop" is the delightful
and surprisingly little-visited Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden. Avid
gardeners and plant lovers can do no better than spend a half day or longer at this
extensive and beautiful site, home to a huge variety of tropical plants and flowers,
including many rare varieties. Continuing on this road brings you to the small town
of Samoeng through lovely countryside. You can then proceed on
a loop southwards back to the city through Hangdong, a large handicraft
centre, and the nearby wood carving village of Baan Tawai. A little
further south of here is Sanpatong , site of an agreeably noisy
cattle market every Monday morning.
Further Afield
To the south and south east of the city, the pretty towns of Lamphun
and Lampang can be explored in a day. The former was the capital
of the ancient principality of Haripoonchai, which predates Chiang Mai, and its
lovely monuments still whisper echoes from the past. Lampang is another historic
centre with splendid temples, and horse-drawn carriages providing a picturesque
eco-friendly form of local transport. For many visitors however, the main attraction
here is the Lampang Elephant Conservation Centre , home to more
than 50 of the noble creatures, including Bo Thut, who appeared in the Walt Disney
film movie "Operation Dumbo Drop". Established to protect working elephants affected
by abandonment, illness, or simply lack of work due to restricted logging, the elephants
receive excellent care, and happily entertain visitors by logging logs, playing
musical instruments, and yes, painting pictures. This unique and colourful "elephant
art" is for sale, and makes an excellent highly unusual gift, as well as helping
to fund the thoroughly worthwhile activities of the centre.
To the south west of Chiang Mai, nature lovers and bird watchers can stand on Thailand's
highest point in the 1,000 sq. kilometres of Doi Inthanon National Park
where the misty peak reaches an altitude of 2,590 metres amongst mosses lichens,
wild orchids and evergreens. The park entrance is approximately 60 km from the city,
and the summit is accessible via winding roads by vehicles in good condition. The
drive up here from Chiang Mai via Chom Tong with its splendid temple
takes you through some lovely countryside, punctuated by tumbling waterfalls and
tribal villages. This makes an excellent day trip on its own.
Basic accommodation is available at Doi Inthanon, but for those who prefer to combine
comfort with an overnight amongst Mother Nature there is no better choice than a
stay at the Angkhang Nature Resort. The 160-kilometre drive north
to this mountain retreat winds through delightful scenery, and the impressive geology
of Chiang Dao , with its famous caves. The resort was developed
as part of a royal agricultural station for planting and researching flowering plants,
temperate fruit trees, vegetable and other crops under the patronage of his Majesty
King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
A 2 1/2 -3 hour drive roughly northeast from Chiang Mai brings you to the small
city of Chiang Rai, the former Lanna capital, established in 1262.
The main attractions lie beyond the city in the area of "Golden Triangle" where
the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Burma meet at the Mekhong River on a delta-shaped
sandbar amongst panoramic views. Short boat trips on the river will let you "touch
down" on official Lao territory, and local diplomacy permitting, it is possible
to cross over into Burma for a few hours at the brashly effervescent town of
Mae Sai, Thailand's most northerly point. Volatile Thai-Burma relations
occasionally close this option, but the town itself is a rich broth of inter-country
trading, with pavements often totally blocked by brimming displays of everything.
Hardly sophisticated, but colourful and interesting, even if you buy nothing. This
is unlikely, given the huge variety of things to eat, wear, place on your sideboard,
or offer to friends back home. Although possible to explore this area in a one day
trip from Chiang Mai (by leaving early and getting home late) an overnight stay
in the area allows for a wider and more relaxed itinerary. This could include a
visit to the Mekhong riverside town of Chiang Saen, (thought to
be the birthplace of King Mengrai) with its ancient monuments and small but fascinating
museum. Other options might include the hill resorts of Doi Mae Salong
populated by families of the Nationalist Chinese Army who fled China in 1949, and
Doi Tung with its revered temple and royal residence.
Another most pleasant and less energetic option is to take a short (35 minute) flight
northwest to the appealing picture-perfect town of Mae Hong Son
, the smallest and most remote provincial capital of the North, best known for its
Burmese style temples, and the river excursion to see the "long necked" tribal women.
This is an especially scenic region in November when the wild sunflowers (Bua Tong)
are in blossom, often stretching in a stunning gold carpet as far as the eye can
see.
Trekking & Hill Tribes
Exploring the forests and tribal settlements on foot with a local guide has become
immensely popular over the last decade, particularly with Chiang Mai's influx of
young travellers. Travel shops advertise a range of trekking options, from a basic
overnight hike to arduous week-long safaris. The recipe is usually the same - basic
accommodation in consenting hill tribe villages, mixed with varying degrees of soft
adventure such as sectors on elephant back or exciting stretches of white water
rafting. These itineraries vary from the memorable to the mundane, and some routes
have suffered from tourism overkill, with a foreseeable negative effect on both
authenticity and hospitality. There are still however a number of dedicated and
eco-friendly operators who operate less-frequented routes, and a well-chosen trek
can be a hugely rewarding experience.
Chiang Mai's tribal settlements are a separate fascinating study, with their origins
in different parts of Asia, and correspondingly very different beliefs, languages,
customs, laws, dress and traditions. Individual descriptions are well beyond the
scope of this web site, but Chiang Mai's larger bookshops stock some excellent coffee-table
publications with stunning photography enhancing the thoroughly absorbing text.
The Tribal Research Institute recognises ten hill tribes or Chao Khao (mountain
people) most with origins in the Tibetan Plateau. Best known are the Karen, whose
numbers are thought to exceed 300,000 in Thailand, (and several million in Burma)
In addition to the Sgaw Karen and Pwo Karen there are several related subgroups
including the oft-photographed Padaung, or "long-neck" Karen. The Akha
are easily recognised by the women's distinctive "mini-skirts" and strikingly colourful
headdresses of beads, old silver coins, and feathers. Other tribes include The
Lahu who are specialised forest hunters, the turbaned Lisu
skilled in silver jewellery, the Hmong (or Meo) with their love
of embroidery and batik, and the Yao (or Mien), who brought their
culture from far-off China. The Lawa (mentioned above) were known
to have lived in Thailand before Lanna but some archaeologists postulate that they
have ancestral roots in Micronesia, perhaps 2,000 years ago. Other lesser-known
groups such as the H'tin, Khamu and Mlabri are thought to have origins closer to
the Golden Triangle.
Shopping
Numerous articles on sale in Bangkok and the beach resorts originate in Chiang Mai,
and many Thais make a special trip here to purchase furnishings and decoration.
Wood carving, textile and ceramic companies regularly handle overseas orders from
important clients, including international hotel chains and multinational companies,
who appreciate the high quality products custom-made to their own designs and specifications.
Whether you are looking for a trinket or a complete set of teakwood furniture, Chiang
Mai is quite simply a shopper's delight, and this topic merits a section by itself.
In the city, growing numbers of high quality outlets add to the expanding variety
and design of locally made products, no better reflected than the choice of excellent
shops a few steps from the Amari Rincome Hotel, many of which sell exclusive or
unique items which cannot be bought elsewhere. A short taxi ride from the hotel
brings you to the Kad Suan Kaew shopping complex, which is home
to hundreds of shops of all kinds, including a major department store, plus entertainment
and sports (see below)
East of the city, the superb handicraft centres of Sankampaeng and Borsang feature
on most excursion itineraries. Although 'invaded' by daily tour coaches, the wide
area and sheer number of factories and workshops can make it seem surprisingly uncrowded.
A guided tour can be advantageous, since groups are treated to interesting demonstrations
and talks. If you are shopping for expensive items however, it is often better to
return later on and conduct your bargaining alone, thus avoiding commissions traditionally
reserved for accompanying drivers and tour guides. Many of Thailand's finest handicrafts
originate here, finding their way not only to Bangkok, but also to quality shops
in foreign capitals. The bewildering choice of items includes Lacquerware, Thai
Ceramics, Silk and Textiles, Woodcarving, and exquisite Silverware. Less expensive
but no less attractive options include lovely Hilltribe Crafts, and items made from
durable Sa Paper (from the bark of the mulberry tree). This material is also used
to make those delightful hand-painted and famous Chiang Mai Umbrellas, which come
in an astonishing variety of colours and sizes, from miniature mantelpiece versions
all the way up to giant garden parasols. The well known Night Bazaar, located between
the old city and the river, has to some extent lost its originality, but interesting
and unusual pieces can still be found amongst the abundance of standard souvenirs.
Sports and Leisure Activities
Active folks will find ample outlets for their energies in Chiang Mai. The Peak
rock climbing center offers 20 climbing routes on the 4-storey "Mountain Wall" with
professional instructors on hand to instruct and encourage. Bungy Jumping for brave
leapers and admiring onlookers has the launch platform suspended over a pleasant
pond. A superb way of viewing the city is by a 20 minute piloted Microlight
aircraft which will greatly enhance your snapshot collection and boost
your after after-dinner anecdotes. Horse Riding is available at
the Thai Army Cavalry army base where the stables are open Saturday & Sunday
evenings at 4.00 p.m. Elephant Riding, is available at the various
elephant camps around the city, or on organised tours. Chiang Mai Go Kart Speedway
has a 600 metre racing track and 4 kart models available according to age and experience,
including two-up versions. Mountain Bike enthusiasts congregate
early on Sunday mornings at Thapae Gate to set off on interesting local explorations.
Enduro Motorcycle Tours take riders along scenic dirt roads either
on one day sorties, or trips of 3 days or more. A recently introduced idyll that
operates in the windless dawn of the November-February cool season is the free-floating
hot air Oriental Balloon, which makes for a memorable experience.
Chiang Mai boasts some excellent Golf Courses including the Royal
Chiang Mai Golf Resort, the Green Valley Golf Club, Lanna Golf Club and the 100-year
old Gymkhana Course. The city's well equipped "700 Year Stadium" which opened and
hosted the South East Asian Games in 1995 has excellent public facilities for swimming,
tennis, and field sports. Ice Skating is available in South East
Asia's largest Ice Rink in Kad Suan Kaew, which also features a
Bowling Centre. Lastly, cricket fans will be happy to note that
the International Cricket 6's tournament is held in Chiang Mai
every April.
Healthy Pursuits
A look in local tourist magazines indicates that Chiang Mai offers a wide range
health-related and holistic practices. Increasing numbers of foreigners come to
either study or submit to various body and mind therapies such as Thai and Chinese
Massage, Acupuncture, Reflexology, Meditation, Yoga
and Tai Chi, to mention just a few. There are also numerous Spas,
and if you are tuned in, you may vibrate in sympathy with the practitioners of outer-fringe
things like Quantum Healing, Aura-Chakra Balancing, Bio-Energetics,
and Clairvoyant & Spiritual Healing. If however you prefer
a more rational and scientific approach, Chiang Mai has excellent medical facilities
and many visitors combine a holiday with a full medical check up, or skilled dental
work, available at a fraction of the cost in Europe or North America. Nothing however
is as health-giving as a good balanced diet, and Thai food, with its fresh herbs,
and abundance of fruit and vegetable based dishes, is rapidly eclipsing other cuisines
in global popularity. Not surprisingly therefore, Thai Cooking Lessons
are very popular, and various establishments offer cooking courses, including the
Amari Rincome Hotel who can arrange classes for groups.
Entertainment
Assuming that you have sufficient energy left after sunset, the city has no shortage
of night entertainment. Certainly one of the most touristy, but arguably the most
enjoyable evening excursion is the Kantoke Dinner at the Old
Chiang Mai Cultural Centre. The informative well-produced show features
members of the main hill tribes in a colourful selection of music and dance - a
tried and tested formula of audience enjoyment, which has been performed nightly
for over 30 years. A larger and grander alternative can be found at the recently
opened Khum Kantoke Restaurant. Another pleasant night out is assured
on a Dinner Cruise along the Ping river, but if you prefer land-based dining, the
growing number of Pubs and Restaurants on the banks of the
Ping River provide excellent live music and entertainment, a combination
which can keep you out much later than you had planned. Watch out for the latest
movies (which often precede releases in Europe) and are normally screened in the
original sound track - with seats at a fraction of the prices you would pay at home.
Look out too for live performances scheduled at the modern 1800-seat Kad Theatre
which features live theatre, music and dance by local and international artists.
There are also regular and charming Folk Puppet Performances at
Chiang Mai University.
Events
Chiang Mai has dozens of provincial fairs and festivals throughout the year. Many
have religious or historical origins, others are simply joyous celebrations of Thailand's
amazing agricultural bounty, or its wide range of crafts. Most of them are set against
a background of music, dance, entertainment, market stalls, beauty competitions
and a general air of "Sanuk" - that special blend of infectious joie de vivre which
can only be found in Thailand.
Amongst the most important are the Borsang Umbrella Festival and
the Baan Tawai Wood Carving Fair, both held in January. Early February
brings the lovely Chiang Mai Flower Festival with parades, floats,
cultural performances and exhibitions. In the heat of mid-April, city commerce closes
down for nearly a whole week during the Thai New Year Songkran Festival,
which is celebrated in Chiang Mai with more fervour and more water throwing than
the rest of the country put together. This is a wonderfully wild time, and unless
you are wearing quick-drying clothes and carrying your camera in a plastic bag,
you should not leave the waterproof interior of a closed vehicle during the daytime.
Evenings bring relative safety, and a host of splendid cultural events in many city
venues. The Chiang Mai Mardi Gras takes place in October at the
Night Bazaar, with food festivals, shows, music awards, and general merriment. The
most beautiful Loy Kratong (Yeepeng) festival takes place during
the November full moon when candlelit handmade floats or "kratongs" are placed reverently
on any available stretch of water, creating an unforgettable backdrop for the processions,
celebrations, and performances, which for most foreigners, make this the best-loved
event of the year.
Conclusion
Chiang Mai has arguably more attractions, more fascination, more festivals and more
appeal than any mountain resort in Asia. Blended with Thailand s unique hospitality,
cuisine and carefree ambience, plus the comparatively low cost of hotel accommodation,
it is quite simply unbeatable.
It is worth remembering however that apart from small sections of the town, Chiang
Mai is spread out over a fairly wide area, and some form of transportation is essential
to appreciate all there is to see. Newly arrived visitors who venture out on foot
from their downtown hotel for "a walk" may discover that like most other cities
in Asia, Chiang Mai suffers from some modern day problems. Traffic, and the veneer
of modernity reflected by highways and tall buildings can conceal the real magic,
and create a disappointing first impression.
Chiang Mai enjoys three distinct seasons. From November to March the days are beautifully
warm, and the evenings cool enough to warrant a sweater or light jacket. At higher
altitudes, heavier clothing is needed. April and May can be uncomfortably hot, especially
in the afternoons, but the nights are cool, and early mornings perfect for sightseeing.
The rainy season, roughly from June to mid-October gives a pleasant mix of tropical
downpours and bright sunshine, transforming the countryside into lush quilts of
green, and a profusion of tropical flowers.
The city is rapidly becoming a regional airline hub, and it is possible to combine
Chiang Mai with other exotic destinations to create an exciting holiday itinerary.
At the time of writing, there are flight connections with Kunming and Jinghong in
China, Rangoon and Mandalay in Burma, Luang Prabang and Vientiane in Laos. There
are also direct flights to Taipei and Singapore.
The Amari Rincome Hotel opened in 1969, and is the longest established first class
hotel in the city. It has a long history of welcoming distinguished guests, including
members of the Thai Royal Family, who are regular visitors here. It blends very
high standards of hospitality with the perfect ingredients for rest and relaxation
- large flower-filled grounds, shady trees, two swimming pools and a private tennis
court. Located a few minute's drive from the National Museum, the immediate environs
of the hotel combine some of Chiang Mai's highest quality shopping, excellent restaurants
and night spots with an adjoining network of small leafy lanes which are lovely
to explore by bicycle or on foot.
Chiang Mai of course has no beach, but for those who seek sand and sea combined
with these mountainous northern delights, Thai Airways operates a convenient daily
(2-hour) flight direct to Phuket - where the Amari Coral Beach Resort awaits, with
an equally warm and special welcome.
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